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If you own a car you love and are keen on protecting it, then you might be interested in a ghost immobiliser. But what is a ghost immobiliser and how do they work?

If you own a car you love and are keen on protecting it, then you might be interested in a ghost immobiliser. 

But what is a ghost immobiliser and how do they work?

Firstly, you need to appreciate that this is a type of vehicle security created by Autowatch that will help protect your vehicle from:

Essentially, the only way that a car thief will be able to steal your vehicle if it has a ghost immobiliser fitted, is by towing away.

But you will have the last laugh though since the thief still won’t be able to start it after towing it!

This last point really does raise an interesting question: How does a ghost immobiliser work?

It's important to appreciate that for a vehicle with such an immobiliser fitted that there are no LED lights or radio signals that will give away its location.

It’s also easy to use – you simply select a sequence of buttons from the driver’s seat to create a unique PIN code and that’s it.

Unless the thief knows the sequence, they cannot start your car.

You can change the PIN at any time which consists of up to 20 button presses.

The ghost immobiliser system will become automatically active when the ignition is switched off so there's no need to worry about having to set it.

A thief cannot replace the engine control unit (ECU) or even create a new key to start the ignition.

It's also important to appreciate that the level of security is so high that a thief cannot hack it using an OBD port because they cannot use diagnostics to find out where the immobiliser is.

However, the ghost immobiliser will be on the CAN data circuit and will communicate directly with the ECU.

What if I cannot remember the ghost immobiliser PIN?

However, since we are all human and make mistakes, the ghost immobiliser also caters for those times when we may forget the PIN code. To put your mind at rest, you can:

Access a unique and secure emergency code should you ever forget your PIN sequence

If you ever need to have your car serviced, there's a specific code for this so security is not compromised.

And if trying to remember the PIN code is a bit of a faff – you can use the iPhone app that connects to the vehicle so you can just get in and drive off without bothering with the PIN.

Why bother fitting the ghost immobiliser?

But why bother fitting the ghost immobiliser? The simple answer is, if you have an expensive car that thieves might be interested in (and also not-so-expensive cars) then this is another line of defence that is worth considering.

A list of the most stolen and recovered cars last year has been published by Tracker who install tracking technology.

In their top spot is the Range Rover Sport, followed by the BMW X5.

In third place is the Mercedes C-Class, then the Range Rover Vogue and the Land Rover Discovery.

So far, it’s not looking so good for Range Rovers or BMW's and in sixth place is the BMW X6 and the Range Rover Evoque is in seventh place.

The BMW 3 Series is in eighth place, followed by the Range Rover Autobiography and then the Mercedes E-Class in 10th place.

That’s a lot of expensive metal being stolen by car thieves, so the ghost immobiliser is probably a small price to pay to prevent thieves from stealing your pride and joy in the first place. Particularly if you own a Range Rover.

Just like buying, there are a number of different ways to sell your current car. Many of us opt for the simple route, which is to simply part-exchange / trade it in when buying or leasing our next car. Whilst this is very convenient, you can sometimes actually get as much as 10-15% more if you sold it privately instead.

This is by far the simplest and most popular way of getting rid of our unwanted vehicles. Nearly all dealers have a part-exchange scheme, where they offer to buy your current vehicle from you as part of the package when buying your next car from them. This means you simply hand them the keys, and they will knock the price off the cost of the new vehicle.

Even if your current car is damaged, needs servicing or just needs a good clean, the dealer will simply give you what they think it’s worth. Always shop around though, as some dealers are more generous than others. Having said that, you’re still much better off trying to sell it privately, as you will get a lot more for it. Remember, the dealer will want to make a profit from your vehicle, and so you’ll be getting less than market value for it.

This is the most time-consuming way to sell your car, but it can pay dividends. You can get top whack for it knowing there’s no middle man trying to make a profit on top of your own.

It’s important when selling privately to keep the car in good condition. If you have a viewing, make sure it’s clean, inside and out. Spotless. If the car looks like it’s been looked after then people will be more likely to want to buy it off you.

Remember though, you’ll need to pay for online adverts on sites like AutoTrader. These are great as they can attract customers from all over the country, but bear in mind that many buyers will filter-out private sale vehicles, so you won’t have access to a lot of the buyers in the market that the dealers will.

Also, buyers will generally want to pay less buying privately due to the added risk involved, so you may not get as much as similar cars being sold by dealers. It should still beat any part-exchange price though.

Once online, be prepared to go on test drives and also be annoyed by time-wasters, especially if you have a desirable car. And the most important thing is to make sure that anyone driving your car on a test drive brings proof of insurance. The last thing you want is someone writing your car off before you’ve even sold it. If you are lucky enough to make a sale, ensure all funds clear completely before handing over the keys and the vehicle log book.

You know those companies who claim to “buy any car”. There are now a huge number of them that will give you an instant valuation for your vehicle. You simply enter your vehicle registration and mileage and it will give you a figure. Be wary though, the amount they offer is usually significantly less than even that which a dealer would offer, and is also usually subject to vehicle inspection. Expect even more to be knocked off if there is any damage, faults or the condition of the vehicle is not as expected. There is often an administration fee to be paid as well, so factor this into the final sale price. As a general rule, use these websites as a last resort, or if you’re in a hurry to part with your vehicle.

This is a more risky way to sell your car as you don’t know beforehand the amount you’ll be getting. You pay an entry fee, usually in the ballpark of £30, and then set a reserve price. If you manage to get a sale then the buyer will pay for it immediately. Remember, you’ll have to pay the auction house some commission, often around 10% or so. Many of the buyers at auctions tend to be dealers themselves, and they will be looking to sell the car on once again. You therefore may not get the price you were hoping for.

If you still have outstanding finance on your vehicle, you’ll want to settle this before attempting to sell it. To do this you’ll need to speak to your finance company and ask them for a “Settlement Figure”. There may be an early redemption charge and an administration fee to pay, but this is usually a lot less than the interest you would have incurred had you simply continued to pay the finance each month until the end of the term. Once you have paid the remaining balance in full you are free to sell the vehicle on.

If you are looking to part-exchange your vehicle with outstanding finance, many dealers will be happy to do this, as long as you have the settlement figure required to clear the balance. This will simply be deducted from the amount you get for your part-exchanged vehicle.

However you’re planning on selling your car, it’s incredibly important to keep all documentation, including all receipts and MOT/Service documents. This will let future owners have a clear picture of the life the car has had. Presumably, if you’re reading this article, you’re someone who cares about your cars, so make that obvious by filing everything and having a Full Service History. It will add value to your car at the end of the day too, so it’s a win-win.

It’s daunting, but sometimes the best way to sell your vehicle isn’t necessarily the easiest. If you can manage without it for a few weeks, it will most likely save you hundreds if not thousands of pounds if you sell it before buying your next one.

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

For traditional petrol and diesel vehicle drivers, it’s usually a fairly simple choice to decide where to fill up your motor; generally it’s the nearest petrol station. But for electric vehicle drivers the choice is not so simple; largely due to the multitude of different charging options available.

The first choice to make is how quickly you need your vehicle to charge up. For example, if it’s the end of the day and you don’t need the car until the next morning, then a slow overnight charge would be suitable. However, if you’re en-route and need to fill up quickly, then a much faster (and generally more expensive option) will probably be the one to go for.

Electric vehicle chargers come in three different speed ratings: Rapid, Fast and Slow. This represents how power is outputted and hence directly affects the speed the connected vehicle is charged.

There are two types of Rapid charger: Alternating Current (AC) or Direct Current (DC). Currently, AC chargers have a 43kW (kilowatt) rating. DC chargers tend to be 50kW or more, meaning they can charge most Electric Vehicles (EVs) to 80% in under 60 minutes. Most rapid chargers tend to be Direct Current.

Tesla’s use Tesla Superchargers, which are Rapid DC and can charge at high speeds, utilising power of 120kW. This is certainly one of the benefits of opting for a Tesla, but of course, you’ll pay for it, as Tesla’s don’t tend to come cheap. Check out our exclusive review of the Tesla Model 3.

Fast charging usually has output between 7kW and 22kW. As the power output is so much less than rapid chargers, it naturally takes longer to charge a vehicle. As a result, a full charge takes around 3-4 hours.

It does get slower though... and slow chargers are charging units that have a power output of up to 3.7kW and are designed really for overnight charging. This is because it can take a good 6-12 hours to charge an electric vehicle; and sometimes more. Even with a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) - where a battery is used in conjunction with a traditional petrol or diesel engine - it can take a 2-4 hours to charge the battery. Connection to a slow charger is made using a standard 3-pin plug socket.

Nothing is ever simple, and as such, there are a number of different types of charger available. None will be compatible with every vehicle, so before buying or leasing an electric vehicle, or getting a home charger installed, make sure you have the correct type of charger.

This is the slowest, least efficient way of charging your vehicle and should only be used as a last resort. EVs will allow you to charge your vehicle at home using a standard 3-pin plug socket, but be warned it will charge at a painstakingly slow rate, giving you roughly 8 miles of range per hour of charging. However, if you are happy charging your vehicle overnight, then it can be a very convenient and cheap way to add some juice to your car.

Most European manufacturers are favouring this type of charger. The Type 2 has a 7-pin socket and is used for both Slow and Fast charging. It also has an in-built locking mechanism, which makes connecting and recharging easier and safer.

UK Home charger installations will tend to come with this option so you can recharge much faster than if you only had a standard 3-pin plug socket. A Type 2 connection at home (with 3.7kW single-phase power) will give you approximately 12.5 miles of range per hour. However, you may be able to have the higher powered 7kW installed (like most public charging stations in the UK) and so you can charge up to 25miles of range per hour.

Some public charging stations may have the Type 2 Combo (CCS) socket that is used for Rapid charging. This is great as it can have a higher power rating and can charge your vehicle much more quickly; at roughly 75 miles per hour of charging.

Over in Europe, research has begun on the next-generation of Type 2 chargers. The plan is to install a network of Rapid chargers capable of 350kW output. With this power output, you can expect to gain up to 525 miles of range per hour.

Obvious from its name, but Tesla Type 2 is the connection used by all Tesla Vehicles. These are the only Direct Current (DC) chargers that use a Type 2 connector. All others are Alternating Current (AC). These Tesla Superchargers will give a vehicle approximately 180miles of range per hour.

Essentially, this is the US format of the Type 2 / CCS setup. In the US, Type 1 is used for Slow and Fast charging and CHAdeMO is for Rapid Charging. The Type 1 connector has a 5-pin socket and does not feature a locking mechanism.

Charging rates for Type 1 are pretty much the same as for Type 2.

Depending on your vehicle, the connection type will vary - just like smartphones all tend to come with different charging cables. Your vehicle’s battery size plays an important role in how fast your vehicle may charge. Larger EV's tend to have larger batteries, and these are usually more capable of the fastest (Rapid) charging.

Currently, there are around 17,000 public charging points in the UK. Thanks to new legislation, it is now a compulsory requirement for all large petrol stations and motorway services to provide charging points. So as time moves on, there will be more and more of these appearing up and down the country. They also tend to be capable of either Fast or Rapid charging.

Tesla has its own network of ‘Superchargers’. In the UK these can dispense power up to a massive 145kW, although currently Tesla cars themselves are limited to a meagre 120kW.

Currently, when topping up your electric vehicle, you’re most likely to see one of the following installations: BP Chargemaster (Polar), Ecotricity, Pod Point and Charge Your Car.

Depending on which one you use, the payment methods available will vary. Some may take traditional bank cards, some an RFID card, and some of the more advanced may connect to your account via a smartphone app.

Before you can charge your vehicle, you’ll need to sign up to whichever company manufacturers the charging network and create your own account. Usually this is free, but double check as some require a membership sign-on fee.

Once signed up and connected, you’ll be charged in one of the following ways:

We recommend choosing one that charges per kWh as it’s easier to calculate how much you’ll be paying. Also bear in mind, some will also charge an initial connection fee each time you connect your vehicle. So it’s worth checking beforehand if you’re planning on just putting in a small amount to keep you going. In addition, like traditional petrol stations, actual price will vary dramatically, so be sure you’re happy with the price before connecting.

Ecotricity, for example, charges roughly £6 for a 45 minute charge from a Rapid Charger. In the Nissan Leaf, this will get the battery up to 80%. Check out our exclusive review of the Nissan Leaf e+.

If you’re lucky enough to have off-street parking, then a home installation of an EV charging point could very well be the most practical, convenient and cheapest way of regularly charging your electric car. 

To keep things simple, many companies offer a fully installed package for a fixed price. The cost is usually around £1,000 and you may be eligible for a Government grant of up to £500 to help with the installation cost; that is if you own or lease your vehicle. You may also be able to get an additional £300 from the Energy Saving Trust (EST). So the resulting outlay could very well be minuscule; especially when compared to how much you’ll be saving on running costs.

You’ll find the majority of home charging setups have a power output of around 3.7kW or 7kW. The 7kW packages are the wall-mounted high power ones, and will cost more to install, but they will charge your vehicle much faster.

The installation will be done on its own separate circuit (to save your car shorting out your entire house), and you’ll be able to monitor your electricity use either by your traditional meter, or by a smartphone app.

If you buy an electric car from new, you may be offered a free home installation as part of the deal. This is because many vehicle manufacturers now have deals with some of the charging companies, so it’s worth haggling to see if you can get this included.

Unfortunately, if you don’t have off-street parking, you’re unlikely to be able to benefit from having your own charging point. This is because most councils won’t allow cables trailing across the street or pavement, for obvious safety reasons. Having said that, there are new technologies being researched to enable this, such as electric pads that sit underneath your vehicle to charge it wirelessly, and possibly using the power from lampposts. This is because since their switch to LED, there is a lot of leftover power that can be harnessed.

One possible alternative to home charging is charging at work. An increasing number of workplaces are having charging points fitted. They are a very practical way of charging your vehicle, as you can do it while you’re busy and your vehicle is stationary for hours at a time, rather than having to wait around at a service station.

These charging points are generally for both employees and visitors, and are being fitted often as a way to attract new workers as a staff perk and also to attract new visitors and customers.

Unlike home chargers though, work-place chargers generally have a higher electricity output, 7kW to 22kW. They often come double-socketed too, so two vehicles can be connected at once. Like home installations, workplace grants are available as well as capital allowances to incentivise companies to have the EV points fitted. Depending on the company, they may even offer free charging if they want an even greater attraction for staff and visitors.

Whilst the charging network is not yet ready for the whole of the UK to instantly adopt an electric vehicle, it’s huge rate of expansion means it won’t be long before it is. For more information about the UK charging infrastructure, check out our article Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?.

The International Energy Agency is aiming to increase the share of electric vehicles globally to 30% by 2030 and many national governments working to create an enabling environment for the adoption of electric vehicles, it seems like the electric car revolution is here to stayhere to stay.

Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?

Recent trends indicate that despite its currently poor state, Britain's charging infrastructure will be able to cater for increased adoption of electric vehicles in the future. With Boris Johnson pledging in November to make charging stations readily accessible - at least 30 miles within the reach of everyone, The International Energy Agency aiming to increase the share of electric vehicles globally to 30% by 2030 and many national governments working to create an enabling environment for the adoption of electric vehicles, it seems like the electric car revolution is here to stay.

That means if you buy an electric vehicle today, you won't get stranded with an inconvenient and unwanted product in the future. Also, since both public agencies and private auto companies are set to derive immense benefits from having more electric vehicles on roads, their efforts to develop the needed charging infrastructure will be sustained. But what are these benefits?

Why Investing in Charging Infrastructure is a Top Priority

First, electric vehicles are eco-friendly. Unlike petrol, diesel or gas vehicles that emit carbon dioxide which affects the atmosphere, electric vehicles don't. Also, their batteries are recyclable. This makes electric vehicles a perfect ally in the fight against pollution and climate change. Which is why a coalition of charity groups including Greenpeace, WI, and Oxfam recently demanded that,

"The next government must bring forward the target for reaching net-zero carbon emissions by five years to 2045, phase out diesel and petrol cars by 2030 instead of 2040, and start devoting at least 5% of all government spending to the climate and the restoration of the UK’s natural environment."

By enabling the growth of electric vehicles and its supporting infrastructure today, the government will save more on health and the environment tomorrow. But the government won't be the only one saving money.

For car owners, electric vehicles are cheaper to maintain, don't need oil-related maintenance and there are tax cuts on each purchase. While they're currently more expensive to acquire than traditional cars, those purchase costs are also expected to nosedive shortly. Besides, since electricity is cheaper than petrol or gas, owners will save more when charging the vehicle. These factors represent an opportunity that ambitious Auto companies are eager to explore; hence, their readiness to find lasting solutions to common electric vehicle problems.

Electric vehicles are powered by rechargeable batteries. This means that while you don't have to refuel anymore, you'll need electric energy to run your car. And through an EV charging station, you can access the required electrical energy.

Charging your car can be done in three different modes (also called levels). Level one involves the use of a 120-volt outlet at home. It is the slowest mode and is not suitable for travel over long distances. With level two, you'll need to use a 240-volt power outlet. It offers a faster charge than the former. The final and fastest option is the DC charger. This mode offers the best option for long-distance travel.

There are also different kinds of electric charging stations. Your needs will determine the kind of station that you'll use. One option is lamp-post charging. Readily available and always connected to electricity, LED lamp-posts can provide 20 miles of driving with every hour of charging. Another option is induction pads. Unlike other common charging stations, pads eliminate the need for cables but they're expensive for average car buyers. Other kinds of stations are kerbside charging points and fast-charging hubs powered by solar panels.

How much does it cost to use a charging station? This depends on the model of your electric vehicle because each model comes with different battery sizes. Typically, an electric vehicle with a bigger battery size will cost more to recharge.

With more than 63,000 electric cars sold by November 2019, exceeding 2018's total of 59,700, and the government pledging to create the needed infrastructure, you might want to join the train. But before buying your first electric vehicle, you should get familiar with all purchase options: brand new or second-hand (they're now available, cheaper and of course, come with the typical disadvantages of second-hand products), electric vehicles or hybrids, driving ranges and battery sizes.

Often, the decision to buy our next car is one that is thrust upon us by unforeseen circumstances; a broken down banger or sudden vehicle theft, for example. Occasionally, however, we may be lucky enough to plan ahead and choose when we want to make that all-too-precious upgrade to our next car.

Choosing the right time to buy can actually be as tricky as choosing which car you actually want. Should you buy in summer or winter? Start of the month or end of the month? Weekday or weekend? All these are questions we ask ourselves and rarely know what is best.

We'll start with an easy one: If you have the flexibility to visit a dealer during the week you’re more likely to get better facetime as they’ll be quieter. This is an easy way to put yourself in the driving seat. (Sorry, couldn't resist the pun...)

The type of car will also affect when the best time to buy is. For example, convertibles and sports cars tend to be more popular in summer (picture top-down winding roads with the sun beating down on the way to the beach), and so you may find cheaper deals for these during the winter months. On the flip side, 4x4s are more sought after during winter (thinking more about dark, wet and snowy school runs now...), so these could be available at a discount over spring and summer.

Also consider the weather. When it’s pouring with rain or snowing outside, people don’t really want to go out, so the dealerships may be quieter. Similarly, if it’s a glorious day, the average person wouldn’t want to spend it walking round a car showroom (me personally, it sounds like heaven, but that’s just me). And, of course, when it’s quiet in the showroom, the salesperson may be getting itchy feet for a sale… I think I sense a bargain approaching…

You’ll need to consider taxing your vehicle too. These are priced per month, so if you buy at the end of the month you will still have to pay for a full month. So it’s cheaper to collect your vehicle at the beginning of the month. And remember, tax is no longer transferable with the sale of a vehicle.

December and January can be a great time to buy a car too. Around Christmas time and the new year people are not really thinking about buying a car, so demand is much lower. This means dealers will be eager to get a sale if they see you enter their showroom. Consider this advantage you.

Usually, the first thing you'll decide is whether you want to buy new or used, as this will greatly affect when the right time to buy is. If you're still undecided, check out our article Used car vs new car - Which should you buy? for more information.

The majority of new cars are bought through dealerships. These dealers are given targets by the manufacturer and incentives to sell as many vehicles as possible. The rewards they get can be extremely lucrative and tend to be calculated every quarter. That means if you want a good deal, turning up at the end of March, June, September or December could mean you get a big discount if the salesperson needs a quick sale to hit a quarterly target.

Another important factor to consider is the biannual number plate changes. Each year in March and September new registration plates are released. This often means there is a surge in demand in buyers wanting the latest plate on their new car (to hold resale value as much as possible), so beware as the higher the demand, the smaller the discount. At the beginning of these months you’ll be unlikely to see many bargains. That said, if you can hold tight until the end of the month, the initial surge may have died down and you might be able to find some wriggle room.

Similarly, if you’re not too fussed about having the latest number plate, you could try to bag a deal at the end of February or August when demand is often lower. Be careful though, because much of any saving will be coming off your future part-exchange price.

It’s worth noting also, that if you want the car quickly, you’ll likely have to take one of the dealers stock or pre-registered cars (also called nearly-new cars), as these can be turned around quickly. Dealers are often very happy to sell their stock vehicles as they just accumulate dust in their showrooms and plummet in value. They are often models that are soon-to-be-replaced with revised facelifted or brand new models too.

Pre-registered cars are cars that the dealer has bought and registered in their own name to bump up their sales figures. They then intend to sell these on themselves, usually within a few months, albeit at a good discount. They often buy a huge number of these towards the end of March and September to hit sales targets, so if you look around June or December you may be able to scoop a good deal on a pre-reg.

A brand new vehicle made to order will take a few weeks and may not be able to be registered until the following quarter, so bear this in mind too.

Unfortunately, bartering a deal on the actual car is only half the job of buying a new car. If you’re looking at finance packages, or any add-ons such as servicing plans or tyre and paint protection, then expect the haggling game to continue for a while longer yet. Also note that the salesperson will likely have specific targets for each of these too. For more information on the types of finances available, see our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?.

Demand for used cars can follow a similar pattern to new cars. This is because at the change of number plates in March and September, when there is a huge rush for all the latest models with the latest plates, there is naturally a huge influx of part-exchanges that are then sold on the used vehicle market. So consider this a good time to potentially get a 3 or 4 year old car for a steal.

Essentially, if you're in a hurry then you won't have much leway when it comes to choosing when you buy your next car. But, if you've got time on your side, consider some of the tips above and you may be able to get just that little bit extra thrown into the deal. Good luck!

Tag: advice

What is a Ghost Immobiliser?

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

Electric Vehicle Charging Guide

Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?

When is the best time to buy a car?

Tag: advice

What is a Ghost Immobiliser?

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

Electric Vehicle Charging Guide

Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?

When is the best time to buy a car?

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