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If you own a car you love and are keen on protecting it, then you might be interested in a ghost immobiliser. But what is a ghost immobiliser and how do they work?

If you own a car you love and are keen on protecting it, then you might be interested in a ghost immobiliser. 

But what is a ghost immobiliser and how do they work?

Firstly, you need to appreciate that this is a type of vehicle security created by Autowatch that will help protect your vehicle from:

Essentially, the only way that a car thief will be able to steal your vehicle if it has a ghost immobiliser fitted, is by towing away.

But you will have the last laugh though since the thief still won’t be able to start it after towing it!

This last point really does raise an interesting question: How does a ghost immobiliser work?

It's important to appreciate that for a vehicle with such an immobiliser fitted that there are no LED lights or radio signals that will give away its location.

It’s also easy to use – you simply select a sequence of buttons from the driver’s seat to create a unique PIN code and that’s it.

Unless the thief knows the sequence, they cannot start your car.

You can change the PIN at any time which consists of up to 20 button presses.

The ghost immobiliser system will become automatically active when the ignition is switched off so there's no need to worry about having to set it.

A thief cannot replace the engine control unit (ECU) or even create a new key to start the ignition.

It's also important to appreciate that the level of security is so high that a thief cannot hack it using an OBD port because they cannot use diagnostics to find out where the immobiliser is.

However, the ghost immobiliser will be on the CAN data circuit and will communicate directly with the ECU.

What if I cannot remember the ghost immobiliser PIN?

However, since we are all human and make mistakes, the ghost immobiliser also caters for those times when we may forget the PIN code. To put your mind at rest, you can:

Access a unique and secure emergency code should you ever forget your PIN sequence

If you ever need to have your car serviced, there's a specific code for this so security is not compromised.

And if trying to remember the PIN code is a bit of a faff – you can use the iPhone app that connects to the vehicle so you can just get in and drive off without bothering with the PIN.

Why bother fitting the ghost immobiliser?

But why bother fitting the ghost immobiliser? The simple answer is, if you have an expensive car that thieves might be interested in (and also not-so-expensive cars) then this is another line of defence that is worth considering.

A list of the most stolen and recovered cars last year has been published by Tracker who install tracking technology.

In their top spot is the Range Rover Sport, followed by the BMW X5.

In third place is the Mercedes C-Class, then the Range Rover Vogue and the Land Rover Discovery.

So far, it’s not looking so good for Range Rovers or BMW's and in sixth place is the BMW X6 and the Range Rover Evoque is in seventh place.

The BMW 3 Series is in eighth place, followed by the Range Rover Autobiography and then the Mercedes E-Class in 10th place.

That’s a lot of expensive metal being stolen by car thieves, so the ghost immobiliser is probably a small price to pay to prevent thieves from stealing your pride and joy in the first place. Particularly if you own a Range Rover.

Just like buying, there are a number of different ways to sell your current car. Many of us opt for the simple route, which is to simply part-exchange / trade it in when buying or leasing our next car. Whilst this is very convenient, you can sometimes actually get as much as 10-15% more if you sold it privately instead.

This is by far the simplest and most popular way of getting rid of our unwanted vehicles. Nearly all dealers have a part-exchange scheme, where they offer to buy your current vehicle from you as part of the package when buying your next car from them. This means you simply hand them the keys, and they will knock the price off the cost of the new vehicle.

Even if your current car is damaged, needs servicing or just needs a good clean, the dealer will simply give you what they think it’s worth. Always shop around though, as some dealers are more generous than others. Having said that, you’re still much better off trying to sell it privately, as you will get a lot more for it. Remember, the dealer will want to make a profit from your vehicle, and so you’ll be getting less than market value for it.

This is the most time-consuming way to sell your car, but it can pay dividends. You can get top whack for it knowing there’s no middle man trying to make a profit on top of your own.

It’s important when selling privately to keep the car in good condition. If you have a viewing, make sure it’s clean, inside and out. Spotless. If the car looks like it’s been looked after then people will be more likely to want to buy it off you.

Remember though, you’ll need to pay for online adverts on sites like AutoTrader. These are great as they can attract customers from all over the country, but bear in mind that many buyers will filter-out private sale vehicles, so you won’t have access to a lot of the buyers in the market that the dealers will.

Also, buyers will generally want to pay less buying privately due to the added risk involved, so you may not get as much as similar cars being sold by dealers. It should still beat any part-exchange price though.

Once online, be prepared to go on test drives and also be annoyed by time-wasters, especially if you have a desirable car. And the most important thing is to make sure that anyone driving your car on a test drive brings proof of insurance. The last thing you want is someone writing your car off before you’ve even sold it. If you are lucky enough to make a sale, ensure all funds clear completely before handing over the keys and the vehicle log book.

You know those companies who claim to “buy any car”. There are now a huge number of them that will give you an instant valuation for your vehicle. You simply enter your vehicle registration and mileage and it will give you a figure. Be wary though, the amount they offer is usually significantly less than even that which a dealer would offer, and is also usually subject to vehicle inspection. Expect even more to be knocked off if there is any damage, faults or the condition of the vehicle is not as expected. There is often an administration fee to be paid as well, so factor this into the final sale price. As a general rule, use these websites as a last resort, or if you’re in a hurry to part with your vehicle.

This is a more risky way to sell your car as you don’t know beforehand the amount you’ll be getting. You pay an entry fee, usually in the ballpark of £30, and then set a reserve price. If you manage to get a sale then the buyer will pay for it immediately. Remember, you’ll have to pay the auction house some commission, often around 10% or so. Many of the buyers at auctions tend to be dealers themselves, and they will be looking to sell the car on once again. You therefore may not get the price you were hoping for.

If you still have outstanding finance on your vehicle, you’ll want to settle this before attempting to sell it. To do this you’ll need to speak to your finance company and ask them for a “Settlement Figure”. There may be an early redemption charge and an administration fee to pay, but this is usually a lot less than the interest you would have incurred had you simply continued to pay the finance each month until the end of the term. Once you have paid the remaining balance in full you are free to sell the vehicle on.

If you are looking to part-exchange your vehicle with outstanding finance, many dealers will be happy to do this, as long as you have the settlement figure required to clear the balance. This will simply be deducted from the amount you get for your part-exchanged vehicle.

However you’re planning on selling your car, it’s incredibly important to keep all documentation, including all receipts and MOT/Service documents. This will let future owners have a clear picture of the life the car has had. Presumably, if you’re reading this article, you’re someone who cares about your cars, so make that obvious by filing everything and having a Full Service History. It will add value to your car at the end of the day too, so it’s a win-win.

It’s daunting, but sometimes the best way to sell your vehicle isn’t necessarily the easiest. If you can manage without it for a few weeks, it will most likely save you hundreds if not thousands of pounds if you sell it before buying your next one.

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

For traditional petrol and diesel vehicle drivers, it’s usually a fairly simple choice to decide where to fill up your motor; generally it’s the nearest petrol station. But for electric vehicle drivers the choice is not so simple; largely due to the multitude of different charging options available.

The first choice to make is how quickly you need your vehicle to charge up. For example, if it’s the end of the day and you don’t need the car until the next morning, then a slow overnight charge would be suitable. However, if you’re en-route and need to fill up quickly, then a much faster (and generally more expensive option) will probably be the one to go for.

Electric vehicle chargers come in three different speed ratings: Rapid, Fast and Slow. This represents how power is outputted and hence directly affects the speed the connected vehicle is charged.

There are two types of Rapid charger: Alternating Current (AC) or Direct Current (DC). Currently, AC chargers have a 43kW (kilowatt) rating. DC chargers tend to be 50kW or more, meaning they can charge most Electric Vehicles (EVs) to 80% in under 60 minutes. Most rapid chargers tend to be Direct Current.

Tesla’s use Tesla Superchargers, which are Rapid DC and can charge at high speeds, utilising power of 120kW. This is certainly one of the benefits of opting for a Tesla, but of course, you’ll pay for it, as Tesla’s don’t tend to come cheap. Check out our exclusive review of the Tesla Model 3.

Fast charging usually has output between 7kW and 22kW. As the power output is so much less than rapid chargers, it naturally takes longer to charge a vehicle. As a result, a full charge takes around 3-4 hours.

It does get slower though... and slow chargers are charging units that have a power output of up to 3.7kW and are designed really for overnight charging. This is because it can take a good 6-12 hours to charge an electric vehicle; and sometimes more. Even with a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) - where a battery is used in conjunction with a traditional petrol or diesel engine - it can take a 2-4 hours to charge the battery. Connection to a slow charger is made using a standard 3-pin plug socket.

Nothing is ever simple, and as such, there are a number of different types of charger available. None will be compatible with every vehicle, so before buying or leasing an electric vehicle, or getting a home charger installed, make sure you have the correct type of charger.

This is the slowest, least efficient way of charging your vehicle and should only be used as a last resort. EVs will allow you to charge your vehicle at home using a standard 3-pin plug socket, but be warned it will charge at a painstakingly slow rate, giving you roughly 8 miles of range per hour of charging. However, if you are happy charging your vehicle overnight, then it can be a very convenient and cheap way to add some juice to your car.

Most European manufacturers are favouring this type of charger. The Type 2 has a 7-pin socket and is used for both Slow and Fast charging. It also has an in-built locking mechanism, which makes connecting and recharging easier and safer.

UK Home charger installations will tend to come with this option so you can recharge much faster than if you only had a standard 3-pin plug socket. A Type 2 connection at home (with 3.7kW single-phase power) will give you approximately 12.5 miles of range per hour. However, you may be able to have the higher powered 7kW installed (like most public charging stations in the UK) and so you can charge up to 25miles of range per hour.

Some public charging stations may have the Type 2 Combo (CCS) socket that is used for Rapid charging. This is great as it can have a higher power rating and can charge your vehicle much more quickly; at roughly 75 miles per hour of charging.

Over in Europe, research has begun on the next-generation of Type 2 chargers. The plan is to install a network of Rapid chargers capable of 350kW output. With this power output, you can expect to gain up to 525 miles of range per hour.

Obvious from its name, but Tesla Type 2 is the connection used by all Tesla Vehicles. These are the only Direct Current (DC) chargers that use a Type 2 connector. All others are Alternating Current (AC). These Tesla Superchargers will give a vehicle approximately 180miles of range per hour.

Essentially, this is the US format of the Type 2 / CCS setup. In the US, Type 1 is used for Slow and Fast charging and CHAdeMO is for Rapid Charging. The Type 1 connector has a 5-pin socket and does not feature a locking mechanism.

Charging rates for Type 1 are pretty much the same as for Type 2.

Depending on your vehicle, the connection type will vary - just like smartphones all tend to come with different charging cables. Your vehicle’s battery size plays an important role in how fast your vehicle may charge. Larger EV's tend to have larger batteries, and these are usually more capable of the fastest (Rapid) charging.

Currently, there are around 17,000 public charging points in the UK. Thanks to new legislation, it is now a compulsory requirement for all large petrol stations and motorway services to provide charging points. So as time moves on, there will be more and more of these appearing up and down the country. They also tend to be capable of either Fast or Rapid charging.

Tesla has its own network of ‘Superchargers’. In the UK these can dispense power up to a massive 145kW, although currently Tesla cars themselves are limited to a meagre 120kW.

Currently, when topping up your electric vehicle, you’re most likely to see one of the following installations: BP Chargemaster (Polar), Ecotricity, Pod Point and Charge Your Car.

Depending on which one you use, the payment methods available will vary. Some may take traditional bank cards, some an RFID card, and some of the more advanced may connect to your account via a smartphone app.

Before you can charge your vehicle, you’ll need to sign up to whichever company manufacturers the charging network and create your own account. Usually this is free, but double check as some require a membership sign-on fee.

Once signed up and connected, you’ll be charged in one of the following ways:

We recommend choosing one that charges per kWh as it’s easier to calculate how much you’ll be paying. Also bear in mind, some will also charge an initial connection fee each time you connect your vehicle. So it’s worth checking beforehand if you’re planning on just putting in a small amount to keep you going. In addition, like traditional petrol stations, actual price will vary dramatically, so be sure you’re happy with the price before connecting.

Ecotricity, for example, charges roughly £6 for a 45 minute charge from a Rapid Charger. In the Nissan Leaf, this will get the battery up to 80%. Check out our exclusive review of the Nissan Leaf e+.

If you’re lucky enough to have off-street parking, then a home installation of an EV charging point could very well be the most practical, convenient and cheapest way of regularly charging your electric car. 

To keep things simple, many companies offer a fully installed package for a fixed price. The cost is usually around £1,000 and you may be eligible for a Government grant of up to £500 to help with the installation cost; that is if you own or lease your vehicle. You may also be able to get an additional £300 from the Energy Saving Trust (EST). So the resulting outlay could very well be minuscule; especially when compared to how much you’ll be saving on running costs.

You’ll find the majority of home charging setups have a power output of around 3.7kW or 7kW. The 7kW packages are the wall-mounted high power ones, and will cost more to install, but they will charge your vehicle much faster.

The installation will be done on its own separate circuit (to save your car shorting out your entire house), and you’ll be able to monitor your electricity use either by your traditional meter, or by a smartphone app.

If you buy an electric car from new, you may be offered a free home installation as part of the deal. This is because many vehicle manufacturers now have deals with some of the charging companies, so it’s worth haggling to see if you can get this included.

Unfortunately, if you don’t have off-street parking, you’re unlikely to be able to benefit from having your own charging point. This is because most councils won’t allow cables trailing across the street or pavement, for obvious safety reasons. Having said that, there are new technologies being researched to enable this, such as electric pads that sit underneath your vehicle to charge it wirelessly, and possibly using the power from lampposts. This is because since their switch to LED, there is a lot of leftover power that can be harnessed.

One possible alternative to home charging is charging at work. An increasing number of workplaces are having charging points fitted. They are a very practical way of charging your vehicle, as you can do it while you’re busy and your vehicle is stationary for hours at a time, rather than having to wait around at a service station.

These charging points are generally for both employees and visitors, and are being fitted often as a way to attract new workers as a staff perk and also to attract new visitors and customers.

Unlike home chargers though, work-place chargers generally have a higher electricity output, 7kW to 22kW. They often come double-socketed too, so two vehicles can be connected at once. Like home installations, workplace grants are available as well as capital allowances to incentivise companies to have the EV points fitted. Depending on the company, they may even offer free charging if they want an even greater attraction for staff and visitors.

Whilst the charging network is not yet ready for the whole of the UK to instantly adopt an electric vehicle, it’s huge rate of expansion means it won’t be long before it is. For more information about the UK charging infrastructure, check out our article Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?.

Tag: tips

What is a Ghost Immobiliser?

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

Electric Vehicle Charging Guide

Tag: tips

What is a Ghost Immobiliser?

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

Electric Vehicle Charging Guide

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