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Just like buying, there are a number of different ways to sell your current car. Many of us opt for the simple route, which is to simply part-exchange / trade it in when buying or leasing our next car. Whilst this is very convenient, you can sometimes actually get as much as 10-15% more if you sold it privately instead.

This is by far the simplest and most popular way of getting rid of our unwanted vehicles. Nearly all dealers have a part-exchange scheme, where they offer to buy your current vehicle from you as part of the package when buying your next car from them. This means you simply hand them the keys, and they will knock the price off the cost of the new vehicle.

Even if your current car is damaged, needs servicing or just needs a good clean, the dealer will simply give you what they think it’s worth. Always shop around though, as some dealers are more generous than others. Having said that, you’re still much better off trying to sell it privately, as you will get a lot more for it. Remember, the dealer will want to make a profit from your vehicle, and so you’ll be getting less than market value for it.

This is the most time-consuming way to sell your car, but it can pay dividends. You can get top whack for it knowing there’s no middle man trying to make a profit on top of your own.

It’s important when selling privately to keep the car in good condition. If you have a viewing, make sure it’s clean, inside and out. Spotless. If the car looks like it’s been looked after then people will be more likely to want to buy it off you.

Remember though, you’ll need to pay for online adverts on sites like AutoTrader. These are great as they can attract customers from all over the country, but bear in mind that many buyers will filter-out private sale vehicles, so you won’t have access to a lot of the buyers in the market that the dealers will.

Also, buyers will generally want to pay less buying privately due to the added risk involved, so you may not get as much as similar cars being sold by dealers. It should still beat any part-exchange price though.

Once online, be prepared to go on test drives and also be annoyed by time-wasters, especially if you have a desirable car. And the most important thing is to make sure that anyone driving your car on a test drive brings proof of insurance. The last thing you want is someone writing your car off before you’ve even sold it. If you are lucky enough to make a sale, ensure all funds clear completely before handing over the keys and the vehicle log book.

You know those companies who claim to “buy any car”. There are now a huge number of them that will give you an instant valuation for your vehicle. You simply enter your vehicle registration and mileage and it will give you a figure. Be wary though, the amount they offer is usually significantly less than even that which a dealer would offer, and is also usually subject to vehicle inspection. Expect even more to be knocked off if there is any damage, faults or the condition of the vehicle is not as expected. There is often an administration fee to be paid as well, so factor this into the final sale price. As a general rule, use these websites as a last resort, or if you’re in a hurry to part with your vehicle.

This is a more risky way to sell your car as you don’t know beforehand the amount you’ll be getting. You pay an entry fee, usually in the ballpark of £30, and then set a reserve price. If you manage to get a sale then the buyer will pay for it immediately. Remember, you’ll have to pay the auction house some commission, often around 10% or so. Many of the buyers at auctions tend to be dealers themselves, and they will be looking to sell the car on once again. You therefore may not get the price you were hoping for.

If you still have outstanding finance on your vehicle, you’ll want to settle this before attempting to sell it. To do this you’ll need to speak to your finance company and ask them for a “Settlement Figure”. There may be an early redemption charge and an administration fee to pay, but this is usually a lot less than the interest you would have incurred had you simply continued to pay the finance each month until the end of the term. Once you have paid the remaining balance in full you are free to sell the vehicle on.

If you are looking to part-exchange your vehicle with outstanding finance, many dealers will be happy to do this, as long as you have the settlement figure required to clear the balance. This will simply be deducted from the amount you get for your part-exchanged vehicle.

However you’re planning on selling your car, it’s incredibly important to keep all documentation, including all receipts and MOT/Service documents. This will let future owners have a clear picture of the life the car has had. Presumably, if you’re reading this article, you’re someone who cares about your cars, so make that obvious by filing everything and having a Full Service History. It will add value to your car at the end of the day too, so it’s a win-win.

It’s daunting, but sometimes the best way to sell your vehicle isn’t necessarily the easiest. If you can manage without it for a few weeks, it will most likely save you hundreds if not thousands of pounds if you sell it before buying your next one.

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

For traditional petrol and diesel vehicle drivers, it’s usually a fairly simple choice to decide where to fill up your motor; generally it’s the nearest petrol station. But for electric vehicle drivers the choice is not so simple; largely due to the multitude of different charging options available.

The first choice to make is how quickly you need your vehicle to charge up. For example, if it’s the end of the day and you don’t need the car until the next morning, then a slow overnight charge would be suitable. However, if you’re en-route and need to fill up quickly, then a much faster (and generally more expensive option) will probably be the one to go for.

Electric vehicle chargers come in three different speed ratings: Rapid, Fast and Slow. This represents how power is outputted and hence directly affects the speed the connected vehicle is charged.

There are two types of Rapid charger: Alternating Current (AC) or Direct Current (DC). Currently, AC chargers have a 43kW (kilowatt) rating. DC chargers tend to be 50kW or more, meaning they can charge most Electric Vehicles (EVs) to 80% in under 60 minutes. Most rapid chargers tend to be Direct Current.

Tesla’s use Tesla Superchargers, which are Rapid DC and can charge at high speeds, utilising power of 120kW. This is certainly one of the benefits of opting for a Tesla, but of course, you’ll pay for it, as Tesla’s don’t tend to come cheap. Check out our exclusive review of the Tesla Model 3.

Fast charging usually has output between 7kW and 22kW. As the power output is so much less than rapid chargers, it naturally takes longer to charge a vehicle. As a result, a full charge takes around 3-4 hours.

It does get slower though... and slow chargers are charging units that have a power output of up to 3.7kW and are designed really for overnight charging. This is because it can take a good 6-12 hours to charge an electric vehicle; and sometimes more. Even with a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) - where a battery is used in conjunction with a traditional petrol or diesel engine - it can take a 2-4 hours to charge the battery. Connection to a slow charger is made using a standard 3-pin plug socket.

Nothing is ever simple, and as such, there are a number of different types of charger available. None will be compatible with every vehicle, so before buying or leasing an electric vehicle, or getting a home charger installed, make sure you have the correct type of charger.

This is the slowest, least efficient way of charging your vehicle and should only be used as a last resort. EVs will allow you to charge your vehicle at home using a standard 3-pin plug socket, but be warned it will charge at a painstakingly slow rate, giving you roughly 8 miles of range per hour of charging. However, if you are happy charging your vehicle overnight, then it can be a very convenient and cheap way to add some juice to your car.

Most European manufacturers are favouring this type of charger. The Type 2 has a 7-pin socket and is used for both Slow and Fast charging. It also has an in-built locking mechanism, which makes connecting and recharging easier and safer.

UK Home charger installations will tend to come with this option so you can recharge much faster than if you only had a standard 3-pin plug socket. A Type 2 connection at home (with 3.7kW single-phase power) will give you approximately 12.5 miles of range per hour. However, you may be able to have the higher powered 7kW installed (like most public charging stations in the UK) and so you can charge up to 25miles of range per hour.

Some public charging stations may have the Type 2 Combo (CCS) socket that is used for Rapid charging. This is great as it can have a higher power rating and can charge your vehicle much more quickly; at roughly 75 miles per hour of charging.

Over in Europe, research has begun on the next-generation of Type 2 chargers. The plan is to install a network of Rapid chargers capable of 350kW output. With this power output, you can expect to gain up to 525 miles of range per hour.

Obvious from its name, but Tesla Type 2 is the connection used by all Tesla Vehicles. These are the only Direct Current (DC) chargers that use a Type 2 connector. All others are Alternating Current (AC). These Tesla Superchargers will give a vehicle approximately 180miles of range per hour.

Essentially, this is the US format of the Type 2 / CCS setup. In the US, Type 1 is used for Slow and Fast charging and CHAdeMO is for Rapid Charging. The Type 1 connector has a 5-pin socket and does not feature a locking mechanism.

Charging rates for Type 1 are pretty much the same as for Type 2.

Depending on your vehicle, the connection type will vary - just like smartphones all tend to come with different charging cables. Your vehicle’s battery size plays an important role in how fast your vehicle may charge. Larger EV's tend to have larger batteries, and these are usually more capable of the fastest (Rapid) charging.

Currently, there are around 17,000 public charging points in the UK. Thanks to new legislation, it is now a compulsory requirement for all large petrol stations and motorway services to provide charging points. So as time moves on, there will be more and more of these appearing up and down the country. They also tend to be capable of either Fast or Rapid charging.

Tesla has its own network of ‘Superchargers’. In the UK these can dispense power up to a massive 145kW, although currently Tesla cars themselves are limited to a meagre 120kW.

Currently, when topping up your electric vehicle, you’re most likely to see one of the following installations: BP Chargemaster (Polar), Ecotricity, Pod Point and Charge Your Car.

Depending on which one you use, the payment methods available will vary. Some may take traditional bank cards, some an RFID card, and some of the more advanced may connect to your account via a smartphone app.

Before you can charge your vehicle, you’ll need to sign up to whichever company manufacturers the charging network and create your own account. Usually this is free, but double check as some require a membership sign-on fee.

Once signed up and connected, you’ll be charged in one of the following ways:

We recommend choosing one that charges per kWh as it’s easier to calculate how much you’ll be paying. Also bear in mind, some will also charge an initial connection fee each time you connect your vehicle. So it’s worth checking beforehand if you’re planning on just putting in a small amount to keep you going. In addition, like traditional petrol stations, actual price will vary dramatically, so be sure you’re happy with the price before connecting.

Ecotricity, for example, charges roughly £6 for a 45 minute charge from a Rapid Charger. In the Nissan Leaf, this will get the battery up to 80%. Check out our exclusive review of the Nissan Leaf e+.

If you’re lucky enough to have off-street parking, then a home installation of an EV charging point could very well be the most practical, convenient and cheapest way of regularly charging your electric car. 

To keep things simple, many companies offer a fully installed package for a fixed price. The cost is usually around £1,000 and you may be eligible for a Government grant of up to £500 to help with the installation cost; that is if you own or lease your vehicle. You may also be able to get an additional £300 from the Energy Saving Trust (EST). So the resulting outlay could very well be minuscule; especially when compared to how much you’ll be saving on running costs.

You’ll find the majority of home charging setups have a power output of around 3.7kW or 7kW. The 7kW packages are the wall-mounted high power ones, and will cost more to install, but they will charge your vehicle much faster.

The installation will be done on its own separate circuit (to save your car shorting out your entire house), and you’ll be able to monitor your electricity use either by your traditional meter, or by a smartphone app.

If you buy an electric car from new, you may be offered a free home installation as part of the deal. This is because many vehicle manufacturers now have deals with some of the charging companies, so it’s worth haggling to see if you can get this included.

Unfortunately, if you don’t have off-street parking, you’re unlikely to be able to benefit from having your own charging point. This is because most councils won’t allow cables trailing across the street or pavement, for obvious safety reasons. Having said that, there are new technologies being researched to enable this, such as electric pads that sit underneath your vehicle to charge it wirelessly, and possibly using the power from lampposts. This is because since their switch to LED, there is a lot of leftover power that can be harnessed.

One possible alternative to home charging is charging at work. An increasing number of workplaces are having charging points fitted. They are a very practical way of charging your vehicle, as you can do it while you’re busy and your vehicle is stationary for hours at a time, rather than having to wait around at a service station.

These charging points are generally for both employees and visitors, and are being fitted often as a way to attract new workers as a staff perk and also to attract new visitors and customers.

Unlike home chargers though, work-place chargers generally have a higher electricity output, 7kW to 22kW. They often come double-socketed too, so two vehicles can be connected at once. Like home installations, workplace grants are available as well as capital allowances to incentivise companies to have the EV points fitted. Depending on the company, they may even offer free charging if they want an even greater attraction for staff and visitors.

Whilst the charging network is not yet ready for the whole of the UK to instantly adopt an electric vehicle, it’s huge rate of expansion means it won’t be long before it is. For more information about the UK charging infrastructure, check out our article Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?.

The International Energy Agency is aiming to increase the share of electric vehicles globally to 30% by 2030 and many national governments working to create an enabling environment for the adoption of electric vehicles, it seems like the electric car revolution is here to stayhere to stay.

Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?

Recent trends indicate that despite its currently poor state, Britain's charging infrastructure will be able to cater for increased adoption of electric vehicles in the future. With Boris Johnson pledging in November to make charging stations readily accessible - at least 30 miles within the reach of everyone, The International Energy Agency aiming to increase the share of electric vehicles globally to 30% by 2030 and many national governments working to create an enabling environment for the adoption of electric vehicles, it seems like the electric car revolution is here to stay.

That means if you buy an electric vehicle today, you won't get stranded with an inconvenient and unwanted product in the future. Also, since both public agencies and private auto companies are set to derive immense benefits from having more electric vehicles on roads, their efforts to develop the needed charging infrastructure will be sustained. But what are these benefits?

Why Investing in Charging Infrastructure is a Top Priority

First, electric vehicles are eco-friendly. Unlike petrol, diesel or gas vehicles that emit carbon dioxide which affects the atmosphere, electric vehicles don't. Also, their batteries are recyclable. This makes electric vehicles a perfect ally in the fight against pollution and climate change. Which is why a coalition of charity groups including Greenpeace, WI, and Oxfam recently demanded that,

"The next government must bring forward the target for reaching net-zero carbon emissions by five years to 2045, phase out diesel and petrol cars by 2030 instead of 2040, and start devoting at least 5% of all government spending to the climate and the restoration of the UK’s natural environment."

By enabling the growth of electric vehicles and its supporting infrastructure today, the government will save more on health and the environment tomorrow. But the government won't be the only one saving money.

For car owners, electric vehicles are cheaper to maintain, don't need oil-related maintenance and there are tax cuts on each purchase. While they're currently more expensive to acquire than traditional cars, those purchase costs are also expected to nosedive shortly. Besides, since electricity is cheaper than petrol or gas, owners will save more when charging the vehicle. These factors represent an opportunity that ambitious Auto companies are eager to explore; hence, their readiness to find lasting solutions to common electric vehicle problems.

Electric vehicles are powered by rechargeable batteries. This means that while you don't have to refuel anymore, you'll need electric energy to run your car. And through an EV charging station, you can access the required electrical energy.

Charging your car can be done in three different modes (also called levels). Level one involves the use of a 120-volt outlet at home. It is the slowest mode and is not suitable for travel over long distances. With level two, you'll need to use a 240-volt power outlet. It offers a faster charge than the former. The final and fastest option is the DC charger. This mode offers the best option for long-distance travel.

There are also different kinds of electric charging stations. Your needs will determine the kind of station that you'll use. One option is lamp-post charging. Readily available and always connected to electricity, LED lamp-posts can provide 20 miles of driving with every hour of charging. Another option is induction pads. Unlike other common charging stations, pads eliminate the need for cables but they're expensive for average car buyers. Other kinds of stations are kerbside charging points and fast-charging hubs powered by solar panels.

How much does it cost to use a charging station? This depends on the model of your electric vehicle because each model comes with different battery sizes. Typically, an electric vehicle with a bigger battery size will cost more to recharge.

With more than 63,000 electric cars sold by November 2019, exceeding 2018's total of 59,700, and the government pledging to create the needed infrastructure, you might want to join the train. But before buying your first electric vehicle, you should get familiar with all purchase options: brand new or second-hand (they're now available, cheaper and of course, come with the typical disadvantages of second-hand products), electric vehicles or hybrids, driving ranges and battery sizes.

The Audi RS5 Sportback is a fast five-door hatchback that's an alternative to more traditional super-saloons
like the BMW M3, Mercedes C63 and Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio Verde.

Review: Audi RS5 Sportback

Tested: Audi RS5 Sportback, Audi Sport Edition

 From the top, it’s important that you know how much I like this car. Enormously, as it turns out. So, you may, at any time prior to the verdict some 1,300-odd words further down, want to revisit this opening paragraph…for the purposes of balance, you understand.

#NotFakeNews: There is such a thing as a car that's too good. Most of the premium quality cars currently available at any price point still carry a few notable flaws – either outright deal breakers or niggly-nagglies – that remind you that humans are still in charge of their respective designs and build.

Rarely does a car come along that makes you wonder if the entire development team was replaced by overly scrutinous androids. The 2019 Audi RS5 Sportback is one such car, and its class-leading antics are almost frustrating in their pitch-perfect execution.

The Audi RS5 Sportback is a fast five-door hatchback that's an alternative to more traditional super-saloons like the BMW M3, Mercedes C63 and Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio Verde. You'll pay more for the Audi than the M3 or Giulia but the Mercedes is slightly more expensive than all three.

In many respects, the RS5 Sportback is identical to its coupe sibling, but has two extra doors and an additional 60mm between the axles for improved rear comfort.

Unlike similar feral products from the likes of BMW M or Mercedes-AMG stables, Audi Sport’s fastest models tend not to look like they could kneecap you for no immediately apparent reason. Their performance-oriented styling is usually more subtle and conducive to flying in under the radar.

But while this RS5 Sportback would likely still come across as the more sophisticated member of a trio comprising a C63 and an M3, the 20in alloy wheels, high-gloss black trim pieces and louder sports exhaust introduced as part of the Audi Sport Edition mean it can still turn heads.

Turning more heads and being the trigger for indiscriminate curb side/traffic light chatter was the Sonoma Green paint colour. While undoubtedly a bold left-field choice, I really loved it and thought it well-suited to the character of the car.

Inside, it’s back to RS5 business as usual for this Sportback model. You get a lovely interior with plenty of plush materials, a slick infotainment system with smartphone mirroring, and Audi’s signature Virtual Cockpit digital driver’s display.

Audi’s top-spec Navigation Plus infotainment system comes as standard, along with the brand’s Virtual Cockpit. This replaces the conventional analogue instrument panel with a 12.3in high-resolution digital display that can show information on speed and revs in the form of conventional gauges; satnav instructions or performance data, or several combinations of each.

The driving position is tough to fault, too, with plenty of seat and steering wheel adjustment and a comfortable backrest that provides plenty of upper back support. You can adjust both the bolster and lumbar support to find a supportive position, and they even have a massage function to accompany the heated elements. 

Even if you’re extremely tall, you’re unlikely to have any complaints about how far your seat slides back or how much room there is above your head, despite how its standard panoramic roof reduces ceiling height compared to the regular A5 Coupe or Sportback.

The Sportback also gains a large rear hatch, making it a truly practical vehicle, despite its 465-litre boot being 15 litres down on the Giulia, M3 and C63. With a bigger boot opening than its saloon rivals, it's easier to load bulky items, and with the rear seats folded down there's space for flat pack furniture and even a bike.

It might have an Audi badge glued onto it, but the RS5’s 2.9-litre V6 petrol engine is shared with the Porsche Panamera 4S. Thanks to its twin turbochargers, this engine delivers 444hp and 442lb/ft (600Nm) of torque and feels much more urgent low down in the rev range than the previous V8-powered RS5.

Even so, it’s worth revving the V6 hard to make the most of its performance. Do this and the quattro four-wheel drive system provides traction to slingshot you off the line, making the 3.9sec 0-62mph time seem entirely plausible – and it’ll top out at a governed 155mph.

Once on the move, though, it never feels quite as quick as an Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio, BMW M4 Competition Pack or the Mercedes-AMG C63. Mind you, you’ll be in licence-losing territory quicker than you can say Quadrifoglio.

The automatic gearbox has eight well-chosen ratios. It operates smoothly when you’re driving sensibly, although there is a noticeable delay to change down when you ask for a sudden burst of acceleration. It’s smooth and obedient when you take control manually, too, but isn’t quite as snappy to shift as the dual-clutch gearboxes in rivals. 

Set the car into Dynamic mode on the Audi Drive Select system and the automatic gearbox response sharpens up; it’s quicker to change down, allowing much easier overtakes. It also holds onto gears for longer so you can build up through the rev range for even more power.

The Dynamic mode also ramps up the noise from the optional sports exhaust; in this setting, you’ll find the engine howls and parps when you’re revving it, but the downside is a pronounced drone at speed. In Comfort mode, the engine note is more refined, but is sometimes intruded upon by rumbling road noise. 

Dynamic mode also adds weight to the steering, but it’s still quite heavy even in Comfort mode, making it difficult to turn out of T-junctions or parking spaces sharply. Enter a series of corners and you’ll find that it’s easy to place the front of the car, but while the optional Dynamic Steering system (which varies how far you have to turn the wheel, depending on speed) certainly helps you get around tight turns easier, it also reduces the sense of connection with the front wheels and makes it less instinctive to know what they’re doing.

However, no matter how hard you push, the RS5 never feels like it’s going to get too out of shape. Some may miss the sense of adjustability and ‘honed-to-hoon’ dynamism offered by the rear-wheel-drive Guilia, M4 and C63, but in the dry, the traction you get out of corners from Audi’s quattro system is virtually unbeatable.

Fast, frantic but perfectly practical, the Audi RS 5 Sportback aims to be the market's definitive mid-sized high performance five-door hatch. It gets a sophisticated quattro 4WD system and can hit 174mph on the Nürburgring but is just as happy popping to the skip on a weekend, or collecting your dry cleaning. The spec of this revised version looks impressive, including an RS sport exhaust system and a sport differential. You only truly get a sense of just how fast it is by following behind in something else.

Sure. Some alternatives are cheaper and sound more exciting and, while there’s a much-welcomed 60mm more legroom than the coupe, the rear can still feel cramped for those gifted with more height than I (which, to be fair, is pretty much everyone else).

I take nothing away from Audi’s ethos of quality and refinement but, compared with its rivals the RS5 Sportback feels like something of a blunt clinical instrument from behind the wheel, and one that perhaps lacks character. Some may say the RS5’s envelope hasn’t even been opened, let alone pushed.

An Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio is more exciting, while the V8-powered Mercedes-AMG C 63 has a greater sense of occasion. But, hey, see paragraph one.

But what other high-performance four-wheel drive mid-sized hatch of this sort is there to challenge this one? The closest thing the market has to offer, a rear-driven Mercedes-AMG C 63 wagon, wouldn't give you the all-round grip and really needs a dry racetrack and a licence to burn rubber if it's to appeal over an RS5 Sportback.

As for a high performance SUV, forget it: you'd be all over the place just trying to keep this Audi in sight. Drive it and you'll experience a slightly guilty thrill as if something this much fun really couldn't be legal. Indeed, one day cars like this might well be legislated out of existence.

In the meantime, enjoy this one while you can. The robot in me loved it.

Fast Facts: Audi RS5 Sportback Sport Edition

Engine: 2.9-litre TFSI twin turbocharged V6.

Transmission: Audi quattro AWD, via 8-speed tiptronic automatic

Often, the decision to buy our next car is one that is thrust upon us by unforeseen circumstances; a broken down banger or sudden vehicle theft, for example. Occasionally, however, we may be lucky enough to plan ahead and choose when we want to make that all-too-precious upgrade to our next car.

Choosing the right time to buy can actually be as tricky as choosing which car you actually want. Should you buy in summer or winter? Start of the month or end of the month? Weekday or weekend? All these are questions we ask ourselves and rarely know what is best.

We'll start with an easy one: If you have the flexibility to visit a dealer during the week you’re more likely to get better facetime as they’ll be quieter. This is an easy way to put yourself in the driving seat. (Sorry, couldn't resist the pun...)

The type of car will also affect when the best time to buy is. For example, convertibles and sports cars tend to be more popular in summer (picture top-down winding roads with the sun beating down on the way to the beach), and so you may find cheaper deals for these during the winter months. On the flip side, 4x4s are more sought after during winter (thinking more about dark, wet and snowy school runs now...), so these could be available at a discount over spring and summer.

Also consider the weather. When it’s pouring with rain or snowing outside, people don’t really want to go out, so the dealerships may be quieter. Similarly, if it’s a glorious day, the average person wouldn’t want to spend it walking round a car showroom (me personally, it sounds like heaven, but that’s just me). And, of course, when it’s quiet in the showroom, the salesperson may be getting itchy feet for a sale… I think I sense a bargain approaching…

You’ll need to consider taxing your vehicle too. These are priced per month, so if you buy at the end of the month you will still have to pay for a full month. So it’s cheaper to collect your vehicle at the beginning of the month. And remember, tax is no longer transferable with the sale of a vehicle.

December and January can be a great time to buy a car too. Around Christmas time and the new year people are not really thinking about buying a car, so demand is much lower. This means dealers will be eager to get a sale if they see you enter their showroom. Consider this advantage you.

Usually, the first thing you'll decide is whether you want to buy new or used, as this will greatly affect when the right time to buy is. If you're still undecided, check out our article Used car vs new car - Which should you buy? for more information.

The majority of new cars are bought through dealerships. These dealers are given targets by the manufacturer and incentives to sell as many vehicles as possible. The rewards they get can be extremely lucrative and tend to be calculated every quarter. That means if you want a good deal, turning up at the end of March, June, September or December could mean you get a big discount if the salesperson needs a quick sale to hit a quarterly target.

Another important factor to consider is the biannual number plate changes. Each year in March and September new registration plates are released. This often means there is a surge in demand in buyers wanting the latest plate on their new car (to hold resale value as much as possible), so beware as the higher the demand, the smaller the discount. At the beginning of these months you’ll be unlikely to see many bargains. That said, if you can hold tight until the end of the month, the initial surge may have died down and you might be able to find some wriggle room.

Similarly, if you’re not too fussed about having the latest number plate, you could try to bag a deal at the end of February or August when demand is often lower. Be careful though, because much of any saving will be coming off your future part-exchange price.

It’s worth noting also, that if you want the car quickly, you’ll likely have to take one of the dealers stock or pre-registered cars (also called nearly-new cars), as these can be turned around quickly. Dealers are often very happy to sell their stock vehicles as they just accumulate dust in their showrooms and plummet in value. They are often models that are soon-to-be-replaced with revised facelifted or brand new models too.

Pre-registered cars are cars that the dealer has bought and registered in their own name to bump up their sales figures. They then intend to sell these on themselves, usually within a few months, albeit at a good discount. They often buy a huge number of these towards the end of March and September to hit sales targets, so if you look around June or December you may be able to scoop a good deal on a pre-reg.

A brand new vehicle made to order will take a few weeks and may not be able to be registered until the following quarter, so bear this in mind too.

Unfortunately, bartering a deal on the actual car is only half the job of buying a new car. If you’re looking at finance packages, or any add-ons such as servicing plans or tyre and paint protection, then expect the haggling game to continue for a while longer yet. Also note that the salesperson will likely have specific targets for each of these too. For more information on the types of finances available, see our article PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?.

Demand for used cars can follow a similar pattern to new cars. This is because at the change of number plates in March and September, when there is a huge rush for all the latest models with the latest plates, there is naturally a huge influx of part-exchanges that are then sold on the used vehicle market. So consider this a good time to potentially get a 3 or 4 year old car for a steal.

Essentially, if you're in a hurry then you won't have much leway when it comes to choosing when you buy your next car. But, if you've got time on your side, consider some of the tips above and you may be able to get just that little bit extra thrown into the deal. Good luck!

When summer has bowed out for another year and the leaves have started to fall, it’s time to think about preparing your car for the winter. The number of breakdowns soares in winter as most drivers are ill-prepared for the changing conditions. Even in the UK’s rather temperate climate, there are still some top tips you can follow to make sure you are ready for when winter finally comes.

When summer has bowed out for another year and the leaves have started to fall, it’s time to think about preparing your car for the winter. The number of breakdowns soares in winter as most drivers are ill-prepared for the changing conditions.

Even in the UK’s rather temperate climate, there are still some top tips you can follow to make sure you are ready for when winter finally comes.

If you know a service is due around the corner, it might make sense to get it booked in before winter. Colder weather exacerbates issues with your car, and rectifying them before autumn is over can help prevent a future breakdown.

Many UK manufacturers offer free winter health checks for your car. If you’ve not heard from your local garage, give them a call. They’re usually more than happy to fit you in - at no cost to you. This is because the law of averages tells them, that the more vehicles they inspect, the more likely they are to find issues that need fixing. Of course, if they find any issues and you want them sorting, then you will need to pay for it.

This is one of the most important parts of your car to have checked. As the temperatures drop, the battery is less efficient meaning its output is reduced. At the same time, people will tend to have their lights and heaters on more. Also, the engine oil gets thicker in colder weather so the battery has to run double time. All of these add additional strain so it’s important to make sure your battery is up to the task.

Car batteries are most effective for around five years, after which time it is worth looking to have them check out and replaced if needs be.

Remember, if your battery is flat and the car won’t start, you might be able to jump-start it with some jump-leads connected to another vehicle’s battery. This could be just enough to get you going to the nearest garage.

Top up your engine coolant with antifreeze

Engine coolant is a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. It’s important to maintain this ratio throughout the year. Many people top up just with water over summer, this means that by winter there isn’t enough antifreeze in the solution to keep it from freezing over during cold snaps. This means your engine can overheat which can be a very costly repair.

The legal tyre tread limit is 1.6mm on any tyre in the UK. That said, during winter it is worth considering replacing any tyres with less than 3mm, as less than this means there’s less grip. As we all know, winter tends to see more rain - and naturally sleet and snow - than other times of the year, so this is when you need the most amount of grip you can get.

Some drivers go as far as having a summer and winter set of tyres. Winter tyres offer increased grip, so if you do a lot of driving in winter this is definitely worth considering. It sounds extreme but in some colder countries this is simply routine for all motorists!

Once you’re happy with your tyres’ treads, check they’re pumped up to the correct pressure. This will help with grip and fuel efficiency.

With winter being so wet, lights can easily get dirty and become less effective. Try to keep them as clean as possible and always check for any cracked lenses. Replace any blown bulbs as well, as you’ll be using your lights a lot more than in the summer months. Remember, lights are not just to help you see, but for you to be seen as well.

Give your windscreen a good clean and check for any cracks as they can grow more quickly in winter. If you do spot any, then ask your insurance company how much it is to repair. It’s often free, or has a nominal fee of £10-25, and doesn’t affect your no-claims bonus. They will usually send someone to your home or place of work as well for convenience.

Top up your screen washer fluid. You will want to have it less diluted in the winter so it has a higher antifreeze concentration.

Run your finger along the wipers and check for any tears. If the edge isn’t smooth then they won’t be able to wipe your windscreen effectively. Consider replacing any torn ones.

It might not seem important as a winter check, but look for any stone chips. Whilst they’re mainly superficial, the salt that is added to roads in winter can attack them and make them worse. It’s a good idea to repair any surface damage before the weather turns. You could also have your car cleaned and polished with wax for an extra layer of protection, or even get your car professionally detailed. It will look awesome and keep your car bodywork in great shape through the winter.

A supply box can be useful in all seasons, but especially so in winter. Here are some handy items to consider keeping in your vehicle at all times:

Whenever going on a long journey, it’s good practice to make sure both you and your vehicle are properly prepared.

Check your windows and lights are clear, and you have enough screenwash. Also check your engine oil level and fuel level before you set off. If you hit major traffic there’s nothing more stressful than running low on fuel and not knowing if you’ll be able to get to a petrol station in time. Similarly, if you have an electric vehicle, check how much range you have in advance.

Check your route online. Whether using a satellite navigation system or not, it’s good to have a rough idea in your head of where you’re going, and any potential backup routes in case you hit heavy traffic or an accident.

On that note, check the traffic before you set off. If there has been an accident on your route it may make sense to go a completely different way.

Also, plan any stops in advance. It’s good to know where the services are on the way so you can schedule breaks for fuel, food, drink, toilets or to have a rest or sleep.

Whether you have a fairly modern vehicle, or one several years old, it’s always a good idea to have suitable breakdown cover. Policies can be quick and easy to set up, and if you do break down, it’s good to know you have support available.

Make sure you keep a copy of your policy number and a contact telephone number so you know who to contact if the need arises. Worst case scenario just google the company name and give them a call quoting your vehicle registration number.

It’s important to always expect the unexpected, and if you follow these steps, you should make it through another winter without any major issues. You’ll likely increase the lifespan of your vehicle as well, so it’s a win-win.

Despite revolutions in car technology and security, vehicle theft is still on the rise. Installing a tracking device for your vehicle is one of the most reliable ways to keep it secure. With advances in modern technology too, it’s cheaper than it has ever been before.

Why you should always buy a vehicle tracking device | Car Security, Theft, GPS, VHF

Despite revolutions in car technology and security, vehicle theft is still on the rise. Installing a tracking device (tracker) for your vehicle is one of the most reliable ways to keep it secure. With advances in modern technology too, it’s cheaper than it has ever been before.

In 2017 there were 89,000 vehicle thefts in Britain; up from 56,000 in 2016. Conerningly, 68% of stolen vehicles between 2012 and 2016 went unsolved.

There are fundamentally two different types of tracker:

VHF signal (Very High Frequency - Radio Band)

Some trackers may use a hybrid of the two.

VHF is the system used by all 52 police forces in the UK. It is more dependable than GPS as it can find vehicles even when they are hidden, say underground in a car park. It is also very useful as the signal is only triggered if the vehicle is actually stolen.

GPS has its advanatges and disadvtages over VHF. The main advantages are that it can track vehicles all over the world and can have very high quality feeds. The main disadvtanage is that the signal can be very weak and can struggle to penetrate walls and obstacles. This means if your car is stowed away in an underground car park then it may be difficult to trace.

Many modern tracking systems have complex software that can sense when a vehicle has been stolen. If it believes the vehicle is being driven by an unauthorised driver then it will contact either the police or your monitoring company, who can phone you to determine if you believe the vehicle to have been stolen or not.

In addition to simply locating a vehicle, some trackers can be set up to remotely immobilise a vehicle. This could be invaluable as you could prevent thieves from getting the vehicle to somewhere hidden, meaning you could more easily retrieve it.

There are lots of companies now offering tracking devices, all of which seem to have a different pricing structurer. Some have their devices starting from around £250 and many will also incur a yearly annual subscription. This is usually to cover the cost of hosting route data in their cloud storage, or to provide ongoing monitoring and support services.

Can car tracking devices reduce my insurance premiums?

Yes, definitely. Many insurance companies will offer a discount for protected vehicles, as this is preferable to having to buy you another one if it gets stolen. If the vehicle can be recovered then the insurance company will be able to claw back some of the money, so it’s hugely in their benefit if the car is tracked.

So, potentially, the tracker could pay for itself. Sounds like a win-win… The main caveat is that it all depends on what type of car you have. An expensive car is more likely to benefit from a discount in insurance premiums, and some insurers may be specific about which brands of tracker they accept. Moreover, some insurers will actually insist you have a tracker installed first, depending on the value/type of your vehicle. Always ask your insurer first before signing up.

What to look for when choosing a tracker?

There are a huge variety of tracking devices, all with different features and use different technologies. These are the main things to look out for when choosing the one most suitable for you:

GPS or VHF, or combination of both. If using GPS, it is recommended to have a well-placed GPS and GSM antennae to be able to receive GPS signals as well as send location data via GSM. These days most tracking devices have a GNSS module instead of a GPS module. This is because GNSS combines four different satellite systems: USA’s GPS, China’s Beidou, Europe’s GALILEO, and Russia’s GLONASS into one. This enables you to get the most accurate location wherever you may be in the world. We recommend making sure your tracking device has GNSS installed if going down the GPS route over VHF.

Many modem and tracking devices come with a mobile app for customers to see in real-time where their vehicle is. This is very sought-after and gives complete peace of mind at all times. Bear in mind that this will require GPS and if you have a VHF tracking device and want this feature then it will most likely also need to be GPS enabled. There is often an annual subscription required too for real-time mapping as it involves a lot of data being hosting in the cloud as well as complex sofware.

You may or not require very regular updates to the location of your vehicle. Some trackers will update their locations every 5s-10s while others may be 30s-60s. Some will also allow you to configure your options. A higher interval will mean it uses less power but will not be as good for real-time tracking as a vehicle can travel a lot of distance in 60s. Therefore, plotting the historic movement of the vehicle will not be as accurate.

There are a suite of monitoring options available for different trackers. Below are some of the ones to look out for:

Speed Alerts - The system will alert you when the vehicle travels over a set speed limit. These alerts can be delivered by text (SMS), email or even smartphone push notifications.

Ignition on/off - Alerts for when the vehicle’s ignition is switched on or off.

Route historic log - Some devices will save the vehicle’s route to a cloud hosting provider so you can access this at a later date. This is useful for tracking where a vehicle has previously been but will most likely require an ongoing subscription.

Geo-fence zone - If you use the tracking device for a fleet of company vehicles, or for a child’s first car, you may want to set alerts for when the vehicle crosses a set boundary. For example, if the driver leaves a certain town or county.

International use - If you are likely to be travelling abroad, be sure to check your tracking device is GSM enabled and can transmit in foreign countries. Many of the trackers on the market in the UK will only work on the UK network.

All tracking devices will have an upfront cost and some may also have an ongoing subscription depending on the functionality available with the tracker. Make sure you are aware of all ongoing costs before committing to a specific tracker.

If your vehicle is ever to be stolen you will want to make sure you have a tracking company with good customer support. Read their reviews to see how responsive they are, and check out their stats to see what their success percentage is for retrieving stolen vehicles. Also, if you haven’t already, check out the free DriverBuddy Web App and sign up so you can instantly notify the DriverBuddy community if your vehicle is ever stolen.

If you want very fast reaction times, check if your tracker comes with a central monitoring station and whether or not this is linked with the police. The VHF trackers will transmit on the police frequency so they will be able to track it themselves as well.

There are two options when it comes to installation of your tracker; have it hard-wired into the vehicle’s electrics or simply stuck on as a magnet.

Many wired trackers will need to be professionally fitted (although some can be fitted DIY if you know what you're doing). The upside is that they will not require any form of charging or batteries replaced. They are designed to use the car’s battery in the most energy efficient way so as to not drain its power. These tracking devices will most likely have an installation cost but means they will function indefinitely on that vehicle without any further intervention.

If you would like to track more than one vehicle, or perhaps a bike, then a magnetic tracker may be more suitable. They simply stick on to any metal surface and can be easily interchanged between vehicles. As they are not hard-wired, though, they will be battery operated and will require either regular charging or replacement batteries when they run out.

Trackers can be a big initial payout, and sometimes may have ongoing costs, but this cost could potentially be negated by insurance disocunts. If you're considering a tracker, check the device is approved by The Thatcham Research Group first, as they set the minimum required standards for how they function.

Rewire Security offer a range of fantastic security tracking devices. We would highly recommend their products as they are tried and tested, good value for money, and have excellent reviews.

Why you should always buy a vehicle tracking device

Complete MOT test and certificate advice, plus info on getting an MOT history check, when its due and how your MOT affects car tax, insurance, buying & selling.

An MOT (Ministry of Transport) is a legal requirement for cars over 3 years old (except for Classic cars registered more than 40 years ago which are now declared as Vehicles of Historic Interest (VHIs) making them exempt from MOT testing) and require to have tests carried out to ensure they are still safe and roadworthy.

When your car is three years old from the date of its registration, you will need to get its first MOT test done, then it needs to be retested every year on the anniversary of its last MOT test.

No, you wont be notified when your MOT is due and there is no grace period if you were to miss the due date of your MOT. To save you falling foul of not remembering when your MOT due date is then sign up to our (Beta) free MOT notification service and we'll give you plenty of notice of when it's due.

In short, no you can't. It is illegal to do so with the exception of driving to an already booked MOT. Not having a valid certificate could mean risking a fine, points added to your licence and a driving ban. It also has an impact on the price when you’re buying or selling a vehicle.

An MOT test doesn't take very long. The test takes around 45 minutes to an hour, and you can choose to wait while the vehicle is being inspected.

The MOT test includes checks on many aspects of the car to ensure it's roadworthy and safe to drive, these include:

Once your vehicle has had its MOT and successfully passed all the above inspections, then you'll be issued an MOT certificate (this is generally called a VT20 MOT Test Pass certificate). These have changed since May 2018 (left the old version, new version on the right) to try and make it easier for customers to read and understand what, if any, issues may have cropped up in the MOT test.

Yes, this information is freely available from the Governments free MOT Checker service from the DVLA or you can sign up to Driver Buddy's free service. As soon as you've signed up and entered your number plate, we'll retrieve all your MOT history and update it after each MOT service carried out.

A valid MOT is a requirement for taxing your car online or at the post office. If you’re not driving or taxing your car because it’s off the road, you should declare a Statutory Off Road Notification (SORN).

The biggest issue comes when both your road tax and MOT are due at the same time and the tax runs out before an MOT pass.

So it’s worth either taxing your car slightly earlier or going in for an MOT up to 30 days before the due date to avoid them clashing. Otherwise you may be able to legally drive without an MOT to the nearest test centre, but you’ll potentially be at risk for not having valid road tax.

If you’re driving and insuring your car to use on the road, then you’ll need to have a valid MOT to be legal. But it’s not a requirement to get car insurance, or to receive a payment in the event of a theft or accident.

You may need to take out insurance on a car which has been declared SORN and is kept away from the public highway. Or you may need cover in order to travel to the MOT test itself.

If you do make an insurance claim on a car without a valid MOT you can expect the payout to be lowered to the value of a non-MOT’d car which is significantly lower.

This really depends on the vehicle as the price can increase/decrease but there is a maximum cost set by the DVSA.

Those fees are listed in full on the GOV.UK website. In short, the maximum MOT fee for a car with up to eight passenger seats is £54.85. For a motorcycle it's £29.65.

What is an MOT, what is checked and when is it due?

When choosing your next car there are so many factors to consider. And even once you’ve decided which car you want, you suddenly get presented with your next dilemma: how to finance it.

According to the Finance and Leasing Association, 88% of new private cars bought in 2017 were paid for with some form of finance.

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Tag: vehicle

What's the best way to sell your car? - Part-exchange vs Private Sale

Electric Vehicle Charging Guide

Can Britain's Charging Infrastructure Support the Growth of Electric Vehicles?

Review: Audi RS5 Sportback

When is the best time to buy a car?

Preparing your vehicle for winter

Why you should always buy a vehicle tracking device

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PCP vs HP vs Loan vs Cash vs Lease - What's the best way to buy a car?

How to help prevent keyless car theft

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